Wednesday, August 22, 2007

Climbing - Update



All images above courtesy Art Morenz at Gunks, Aug 2007

Posting after many months. Life has been a bit hectic, considering I have been preparing to relocate to India end of this year. Considering which, the amount of time I can dedicate to climbing or other activities is limited.

I almost considered selling my kayak earlier this month and proceeded to sell my pfd & skirt. After which, a heavy gloom set in. So, figured I will postpone the entire process with the rest of the kayaking gear until a later time. Who knows, I probably could take the kayak back with me to India.

Back to climbing.

This summer, I have free climbed about a dozen or so pitches. And followed on twice that many pitches. My rack still has a few gaps to be filled, and probably will continue to be so. Just the nature of free climbing.

My skills have taken a backseat respect to climbing, with all the energies focused on free climbing, which usually implies that I climb lower grades versus top roped situation.

Also, I took a rather moderate fall in June at Gunks. I was attempting Shockley's Ceiling, a 5.6 climb with overhanging crack problem. I failed to protect the lip of the roof, and I fell, slamming into the face below the roof. In the process I hurt my ankle severely enough to warrant a visit to the ER. Recovery took a good month and half.

While hampered by this injury, I did manage to climb a PG 5.7+, that made me understand the concept of Elvis legs rather personally.

So, I hover in the range of 5.6-7s for now respect to free climbing. But the important thing is my hunger for climbing is strong.

Also, the attitude of some of the other climbers (especially the older crowd) is that I don't have the experience to climb 5.7s. I listen, so I haven't attempted to climb the grade in the presence of this crowd, while I continue to take my personal risks. Risks that I consider acceptable. I continue to climb harder pitches with a section of the crowd that is either too ignorant of my past experience or is willing to climb with me accepting the risk involved.

Until later...

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