Location: Whitestone Cliffs, Watertown, Connecticut.
Directions can be found at the following location: http://www.ct-amc.org/mountain/directions.htm
Once you get to the face of the hillock, skirt it around the cliff to the left. Probably my first time, but I soon discovered wearing shorts and Tevas to the place was a bad idea. Multiple scratches and some minor gashes to prove it. To get to the cliffs, once you are on the trail as per the directions from the above link, turn left and walk along the cliff perimeter. The approach to climb-worthy section is riddled with class IV rocks or through shrubbery.
We got disoriented on the cliffs, as they terrace down in ledges, and we set up ropes from way higher up than we should have. Wasting much time in the process, we managed one climb per person in about four hours spent from the parking lot back to parking lot.
Learnt a few things though.
One. Never leave anything (including your partner), unclipped or unanchored on the cliffs, gravity's a bitch. Lost an ATC, after my partner left it unclipped next to her.
Lesson number two. Don't share your belay device with anybody unless a real emergency, let them use their own. Certain communal acts are understandable, but left with no belay device, you might have to resort to, alternate methods of rappelling in the dark, or walking off a hairy ledge that slopes down, and covered with slippery pine needles.
Three, always prepare. Headlamp, additional batteries, full length trousers, right shoes, compass, bug spray, all things that could easily be forgotten. Getting out climbing in the outdoors can easily turn from a picnic to a minor emergency. Especially, if you are going to a place that you aren't certain about, and it get's late. Never assume your partner will know it all.
Well, all in all, the cliffs are absolutely beautiful and secluded (atleast yesterday). Climbing is worth all the effort. Though short climbs, they are of good quality. Views from top of the cliffs are nice. Though you could still hear the traffic from route 8.
Apart from that one toproped good quality climb, I solo climbed a couple of easy 5.3-5.4s. Nice rush. It's funny how the mind becomes more alive, once you begin soloing, even on the easy stuff.
Wednesday, May 09, 2007
Thursday, May 03, 2007
Rack
Here's my basic rack breakdown, put together with help from numerous folks and sources. Please consider that I currently attempt some 5.10s, and climb in the range of upto 5.9 plus, top roped. And this is my first season with lead climbing.
- 39 biners.
- 8 locking. (ideally about 5 should be adequate),
- 20 on slings (an assortment of bent gates, small pear and wire gates)
- 7 for racking purpose. (Includes ovals for nuts, tri-cams, and small pears for cams)
- 4 are just bums, I hang miscellaneous gear on, nut tools, prusics, extra slings etc. I plan to use these if I have to use gear for retreating on multi-pitch climbs, etc.
- 10 pieces of cams, 3 black diamond C4s (#0.75, #1.0,#2.0), 1 Metolius Powercam (#2.0), 3 Metolius TCUs (#1.0,#.3.0,#4.0), 3 Wild Country Friends (same sizes as BD C4s).
- 4 pieces of Camp Tricams (#0.5,#.1.0,#1.5,#2.0)
- A set of Black Diamond stopper nuts (#4-#13)
- Another set of assorted nuts and hexes (about 8 pieces, #8 BD Hex, BD stoppers #2, #3, #5,#6,#11, Wild Country Rock #5,#6)
- BD Nut tool, unknown brand Gear rack, one prusik loop, one cordelette
- 6 shoulder length, 2 double shoulder length slings (8 of the biners above are on 10cm quick draws, hence this many slings only).
- plus the regular climbing gear including rope, helmet, shoes, belay device, harness, etc.
In addition, I carry a head lamp, obviously my backpack (but considering something more efficient as the total gear plus weight is close to 40 pounds), bug repellent, water bottle, extra batteries, compass.
- 39 biners.
- 8 locking. (ideally about 5 should be adequate),
- 20 on slings (an assortment of bent gates, small pear and wire gates)
- 7 for racking purpose. (Includes ovals for nuts, tri-cams, and small pears for cams)
- 4 are just bums, I hang miscellaneous gear on, nut tools, prusics, extra slings etc. I plan to use these if I have to use gear for retreating on multi-pitch climbs, etc.
- 10 pieces of cams, 3 black diamond C4s (#0.75, #1.0,#2.0), 1 Metolius Powercam (#2.0), 3 Metolius TCUs (#1.0,#.3.0,#4.0), 3 Wild Country Friends (same sizes as BD C4s).
- 4 pieces of Camp Tricams (#0.5,#.1.0,#1.5,#2.0)
- A set of Black Diamond stopper nuts (#4-#13)
- Another set of assorted nuts and hexes (about 8 pieces, #8 BD Hex, BD stoppers #2, #3, #5,#6,#11, Wild Country Rock #5,#6)
- BD Nut tool, unknown brand Gear rack, one prusik loop, one cordelette
- 6 shoulder length, 2 double shoulder length slings (8 of the biners above are on 10cm quick draws, hence this many slings only).
- plus the regular climbing gear including rope, helmet, shoes, belay device, harness, etc.
In addition, I carry a head lamp, obviously my backpack (but considering something more efficient as the total gear plus weight is close to 40 pounds), bug repellent, water bottle, extra batteries, compass.
Gym Climbing
This week, I am winding up my climbing in the gym, and getting outdoors. But before I lose the memory of it, let me articulate the experience of gym climbing.
Gym climbing has its advantages.
- You learn to climb in a relatively safer top roped environment,
- Less hassle of logistics like reaching a crag or cliff, setting up ropes for top roping, ensuring your anchor set up is good & then taking them down after the climb,
- You tend to build your strength faster, as most climbs are meant to provide for multiple cruces, in a shorter route than you would get outside.
- You also, can find potential climbing partners in the gym environment than outside.
I climbed in the gym for two seasons, winters of 2005-06 & 2006-07. Two days a week, for 5-6 months each season. The first season I progressed to climbing some 5.8s by the end of the season. The second season I began attempting 5.10s, getting one 5.10a, clean.
For some the psychology of pursuing those rating numbers is Para-normal. But for some it is pursuit of the ratings that allows you to know what you can attempt, comfortably, and also knowing that your body is capable of hitting a higher rating.
Considering my reasonable state of fitness and age, I started rather easily on 5.7s. 5.7 to 5.9s progression was hard in itself. It took me about a year. Improved technique with handholds and footwork, and body balance, allowed me to reach 5.9s. But 5.10s were and are being hard on my tendons. 5.9 onwards, it is more than technique alone. It is requirement for better finger strength, some dyno moves, better thinking, planning, mental strength, and endurance to retain the same holds after making the moves over half the distance.
Probably will go into the techniques some other time. But as I leave the gym environment, I realize that color coded routes of the gym have got me a bit perplexed in the real environment. While climbing inside has helped me with those crimpy holds, and good footwork, applying those techniques implies, first recognizing the route. Minus the color tags of the gym, a route outside sometimes throws you off.
So much for transition outside.
Gym climbing has its advantages.
- You learn to climb in a relatively safer top roped environment,
- Less hassle of logistics like reaching a crag or cliff, setting up ropes for top roping, ensuring your anchor set up is good & then taking them down after the climb,
- You tend to build your strength faster, as most climbs are meant to provide for multiple cruces, in a shorter route than you would get outside.
- You also, can find potential climbing partners in the gym environment than outside.
I climbed in the gym for two seasons, winters of 2005-06 & 2006-07. Two days a week, for 5-6 months each season. The first season I progressed to climbing some 5.8s by the end of the season. The second season I began attempting 5.10s, getting one 5.10a, clean.
For some the psychology of pursuing those rating numbers is Para-normal. But for some it is pursuit of the ratings that allows you to know what you can attempt, comfortably, and also knowing that your body is capable of hitting a higher rating.
Considering my reasonable state of fitness and age, I started rather easily on 5.7s. 5.7 to 5.9s progression was hard in itself. It took me about a year. Improved technique with handholds and footwork, and body balance, allowed me to reach 5.9s. But 5.10s were and are being hard on my tendons. 5.9 onwards, it is more than technique alone. It is requirement for better finger strength, some dyno moves, better thinking, planning, mental strength, and endurance to retain the same holds after making the moves over half the distance.
Probably will go into the techniques some other time. But as I leave the gym environment, I realize that color coded routes of the gym have got me a bit perplexed in the real environment. While climbing inside has helped me with those crimpy holds, and good footwork, applying those techniques implies, first recognizing the route. Minus the color tags of the gym, a route outside sometimes throws you off.
So much for transition outside.
Blogging revisited with new scope
As I attempt to get back to my blog, just to keep up, I don't want this to be just a Kayaking blog. Considering that since Oct 22, 2006, I have paddled once and have no idea when my next outing on a river would be, there would be little to write about. Besides I want to keep writing, hence the expanded scope.
Of the last six non-paddling months, I spent a considerable amount of time (ten hours in a week), in an indoor gym, working on my climbing skills, then some biking, and then some playing ping pong and hiking, just to stay in shape.
My Target store 'Schwinn something', suspension-challenged MTB, survived some intermediate trails in the hills of Southington under my noob riding. MTB is a hard sport, hard on your lungs. That and the increasing chill of the winter and some rather badly frozen fingers later, I decided to lay off the biking as well.
Back to Climbing, started climbing Dec of 2005. Through summer of 2006, I occasionally top roped, and then resumed climbing in the gym in the winter of 2006. Considering Kayaking was my main focus, and juggling between family, work and other pursuits I could focus very little on climbing. But since I started climbing indoors this winter, I figured, I should probably focus more on climbing as it is one craft, I could pursue back in India, where I plan to return turn of this year. (Accordingly, I have been gathering data on climbing in Hyderabad, Bangalore, Mumbai in general, and in Sahyadaris (western ghats) & Eastern Ghats in specific). Accordingly I started also accumulating gear for trad climbing.
Of the last six non-paddling months, I spent a considerable amount of time (ten hours in a week), in an indoor gym, working on my climbing skills, then some biking, and then some playing ping pong and hiking, just to stay in shape.
My Target store 'Schwinn something', suspension-challenged MTB, survived some intermediate trails in the hills of Southington under my noob riding. MTB is a hard sport, hard on your lungs. That and the increasing chill of the winter and some rather badly frozen fingers later, I decided to lay off the biking as well.
Back to Climbing, started climbing Dec of 2005. Through summer of 2006, I occasionally top roped, and then resumed climbing in the gym in the winter of 2006. Considering Kayaking was my main focus, and juggling between family, work and other pursuits I could focus very little on climbing. But since I started climbing indoors this winter, I figured, I should probably focus more on climbing as it is one craft, I could pursue back in India, where I plan to return turn of this year. (Accordingly, I have been gathering data on climbing in Hyderabad, Bangalore, Mumbai in general, and in Sahyadaris (western ghats) & Eastern Ghats in specific). Accordingly I started also accumulating gear for trad climbing.
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